Tuesday 23 August 2011

The Alhambra

  The Alhambra at sunset with the magnificent Sierra Nevada mountain range as a back drop.



The name Alhambra comes from an Arabic root which means "red or crimson castle", perhaps due to the hue of the towers and walls that surround the entire hill of La Sabica which by starlight is silver but by sunlight is transformed into gold. But there is another more poetic version, evoked by the Moslem analysts who speak of the construction of the Alhambra fortress "by the light of torches", the reflections of which gave the walls their particular coloration. Created originally for military purposes, the Alhambra was an "alcazaba" (fortress), an "alcázar" (palace) and a small "medina" (city), all in one. This triple character helps to explain many distinctive features of the monument.

 There is no reference to the Alhambra as being a residence of kings until the 13th century, even though the fortress had existed since the 9th century. The first kings of Granada, the Zirites, had their castles and palaces on the hill of the Albaicin, and nothing remains of them. The Nasrites were probably the emirs who built the Alhambra, starting in 1238.

The founder of the dynasty, Muhammed Al-Ahmar, began with the restoration of the old fortress. His work was completed by his son Muhammed II, whose immediate successors continued with the repairs. The construction of the palaces (called Casa Real Vieja, "old Royal House or Palace") dates back to the 14th century and is the work of two great kings: Yusuf I and Muhammed V. To the first we owe, among others, the "Cuarto de Comares" (Chamber of Comares), the "Puerta de la Justicia" (Gate of Justice), the Baths and some towers. His son, Muhammed V, completed the beautification of the palaces with the "Cuarto de los Leones" (Chamber of the Lions), as well as other rooms and fortifications.

The Alhambra became a Christian court in 1492 when the Catholic Monarchs (Ferdinand and Isabel) conquered the city of Granada. Later, various structures were built for prominent civilians also military garrisons, a church and a Franciscan monastery.

Emperor Charles V, who spent several months in Granada, began the construction of the palace which bears his name and made some alterations to the interior buildings. These measures were to cause interminable controversy often motivated by political agendas. The remaining Austrian kings did not forget the monument and have left their own more discreet impressions on it.

During the 18th century and part of the 19th, the Alhambra fell into neglect and was to see its salons converted into dungheaps and taverns,occupied by thieves and beggars. "Thus bats defile abandoned castles, and the reality of Spanish criminals and beggars destroy the illusion of this fairy palace of the Moors;" writes Richard Ford. As the crowning blow, Napoleon's troops, masters of Granada from 1808 until 1812, were to convert the palaces into barracks During one retreat they mined the towers and blew up part of them. Two of them, the Torre de Siete Suelos and the Torre de Agua were left in ruins. And so the incredible neglect continued, until 1870 when the Alhambra was declared a national monument. Travellers and romantic artists of all countries had railed against those who scorned the most beautiful of their monuments. Since that date and up to now, the Alhambra, protected, restored, cared for and even improved, has been preserved for the pleasure and admiration of all.


                                                                                 
 
1.   Mexuar Palace
2.   Hall of the Embassadors
3.   Baths
4.   Hall of the Two Sisters
5.   Court of the Lions
6.   Hall of the Abencerrages
7.   Partal Gardens
8.   Charles V Palace
9.   Court of the Myrtles
10. Gardens of Daraxa

The Hall of the Embassadors with its colossal ceiling is a masterpiece of carpentry depicting the seven heavens of Moslem paradise. Magnificent views of the city can be seen from the windows. This was the most important hall in the palace, used for royal audiences and court ceremonies. It was here where Boabdil signed the terms for surrender of the city to the Catholic Kings.

The nearby royal baths show an intimate and sensitive use of light, shape and colour. Singers and musicians would entertain the bathers from the galleries above.

The Hall of the Two Sisters with its cupola of sculpted stalagtites and rich stucco motifs on the walls is the most sumptuous and monumental room in the palace. Its name comes from the two identical white marble slabs in the floor.

Court of the LionsThe Court of the Lions is perhaps the most famous of all the Alhambra. Its pretty marble fountain is guarded by twelve stone lions, and the entire courtyard is encircled by delicate arcades supported on slender columns. The poem inscribed on the fountain tells how much fiercer the lions would look if they weren't so restrained by their respect for the sultan.

The Hall of the Abencerrages is named after a powerful Moorish family of which Boabdil's father murdered sixteen princes. The dark stain in the fountain is popularly believed to be their blood.

The Partal Gardens are relatively recent, having been planted on the site of the sumptuous palace of the Count of Tendilla, first Catholic General of Partal gardensGranada. Pomegranate trees whose fruit, the granada, is symbol of the city, shade the paths. To the north, with fine views of the Rio Darro and Sacromonte, is the richly decorated Ladies' Tower.

The Palace of Charles V was begun in 1526 and interrupted by the Moorish uprising (1568), since when it has never been fully completed. Initial impact on the first time visitor is unfortunate. In contrast to the light Moorish apartments, it is indeed a monolithic imposition on the landscape. Even more so when one considers that part of the arab palace was destroyed to make room for its construction. Its very ground plan shows a total unwillingness to blend in or compromise. In its own right, however, this building is considered to be one of the most important in renaissance Spain, being the only surviving work of the architect Machuca who studied under Michaelangelo. Its fine lines, dignified appearance and simple shape of circle within a square have a classical grandeur and beauty. The building houses two museums: the Hispano-Moorish Museum with its beautiful collection of ceramic vases, and the 
Fine Arts Museum with sculptures and paintings from 16-18th centuries.

Charles V Palace - inner patio

Higher up the hill and overlooking the main palace complex stands the Generalife. This was the summer palace of the sultans, constructed in the 13th century. Here, among the shaded avenues and terraced water gardens, the king and his court could escape from the oppressive heat and catch the best of the light summer breezes . Small cascades, pools and fountains greet the visitor at every turn and almost everywhere there's the constant murmur of running water.
As you enter the Generalife gardens you'll notice a small open-air auditorium. This provides a sublime setting for the annual Music and Dance Festival held in July. Top performers are usually on the bill and, if you're going to be in the area, it's worth trying to get tickets.

The final area to be visited, if you've still got the strength, is the Alcazaba, or Fortress. This was centre of the palace defenses and its central keep offers magnificent views over the city from its roof.